After Japan, we flew to Australia, a destination that had long been on our travel wish list. Since it’s only about a 7.5-hour direct flight from Tokyo with just a 3-hour time difference, we couldn’t pass up the chance to visit while living in Asia.

Cairns. We took a direct flight from Tokyo to Cairns, landing at 4:30 a.m. We were exhausted. Unfortunately, our hotel room wasn’t ready, so we wandered between cafes, and eventually fell asleep on a couch at a mall looking more than a little disheveled. It was not our best moment. 😂

The next day, we rented a car to drive to Daintree Rainforest. I hadn’t driven in two years since moving to Taiwan, and now I had to do it on the opposite side of the road! 😬 I was white-knuckling the wheel for a good 10 minutes, but got so used to driving in Australia after awhile that I don’t even remember what it’s like driving on the right side anymore.

We hiked through the Daintree, spotted some wild turkeys (though the elusive cassowary remained out of sight!), and swam in a freezing cold water hole. Daintree is actually pretty huge and requires driving between different spots, but it was was a much appreciated peaceful break from our usual city life.

Later that day, we went on a boat ride to spot wild crocodiles at the Daintree River. We saw crocodiles of all sizes, from the massive dominant male to a 6-month-old baby.

But the main attraction in Cairns is, of course, the Great Barrier Reef. We booked a snorkeling tour with Passions of Paradise, which first required a two-hour drive out to the outer reef. The boat ride there was incredibly rocky, and several people got seasick, including C.

The Great Barrier Reef was truly a dream. The coral was huge, and full of diverse colors, intricate shapes and beauty. It’s fascinating to me that this underwater wonder was built by billions of tiny polyps over thousands of years. We didn’t see any unusual sea creatures (sea turtles, sharks, etc.) but we were surrounded by schools of dazzling colorful fish, and even spotted a humpback whale on our way back! Despite it being winter, the water was surprisingly warm and comfortable.

On our last day in Cairns, we were able to meet up with friends that happened to be in Australia at the same time. We took a ferry to Fitzroy Island, where we hiked and snorkeled at the stunning beach. It was the perfect way to end our stay in Cairns: sharing it with familiar faces Down Under!

The Outback. After Cairns, we flew to the Outback. Baba and I had debated whether to go here because for one thing, it’s very remote, and secondly, it’s expensive. The Outback’s remoteness makes everything — flights, hotels, food, gas — much more expensive than almost anywhere in the country. But the Outback is quintessentially Australian, and we felt it would be a really unique experience so we decided to go after all.

We flew into Alice Springs in the late afternoon and began the four-hour drive to Kings Canyon, knowing we’d arrive well after sunset. That alone felt like an adventure because driving after dark is considered one of the riskiest things you can do in the Outback. Kangaroos and other wildlife frequently dart across the road, and a collision could leave your car badly damaged. Out here, there’s no quick call to AAA and a tow truck comes to the rescue. You’d be stranded. In summer, the danger is even greater, with extreme heat turning a breakdown into a life-threatening situation. (Thankfully, we were traveling during Australia’s winter, when the weather was cool.)

The road to Kings Canyon was rough and uneven, and for nearly two hours we were tossed around, swaying side to side like balls rattling inside a machine. To make matters worse, we had rented the tiniest, dinkiest car, so we felt every jolt along the way. 😅 The road was full of obstacles too — huge puddles and herds of camels and cows blocking our path. After an eternity, we made it to Kings Canyon safely and had a good night’s sleep.

Kings Canyon is beautiful, with its bright red rock formations and dramatic, deep canyon. We hiked the popular Rim Trail, and the clear blue skies, crisp air, and breathtaking views made the trek enjoyable. Temperatures were chilly, ranging from the mid-30s to low 50s, and we quickly realized this would be the pattern throughout our Outback stay. No complaints, though…we actually prefer the cold!

After Kings Canyon, we drove to Uluru, the icon of the Outback. The rock is estimated to be 550 million years old and formed from sandstone. We did the Uluru Base Walk, a flat 6-mile walk around the sacred rock. The Aboriginal people of Uluru belong to one of the oldest continuous cultures in the world, with a history that goes back more than 50,000 years, even longer than the ancient civilizations of Egypt!

During our stay in Uluru, we saw the rock countless times. Honestly, at first I shrugged and thought, “Eh, it’s just a rock.” Despite knowing its deep cultural and historical significance, it didn’t strike me as particularly spectacular. But then we saw Uluru at sunset. As the sun sank lower, the dull brown surface changed into a fiery red, glowing as if lit from within. In that moment, it felt otherworldly. (Picture on the left is Uluru during sunset, and right is during sunrise.)

We also hiked the Valley of the Winds at Uluru, a beautiful trail that winds through towering red rock domes and offers sweeping views of the desert landscape. One of my favorite hikes in Australia!

The next day, we drove 5 hours from Uluru back to Alice Springs. (Yes, there was A LOT of driving in the Outback.) In Alice Springs, we visited the Alice Springs Desert Park, filled with animals native to the Outback. Honestly, it was a little underwhelming — many exhibits were empty and we saw very few animals. Tickets weren’t cheap either, about $26 USD per adult and $13 USD per kid.

On our last day in the Outback, we drove to the West MacDonnell Ranges, which is a huge mountain range spanning over 400 miles. There are popular multi-day treks there but we picked a half-day hike at Ormiston Pound. The trail was wonderfully varied — we walked through grasslands, scrambled over huge boulders, and even waded across a small pond.

Would I go back to the Outback? Probably not. It’s difficult to reach, the food was mediocre at best, and as I mentioned, it’s expensive. With so few restaurants, we found ourselves eating way too many protein bars on our hikes. The boys and I agreed we never want to see another one again. 😆Still, the Outback has its own quiet charm. Its vast, empty stretches make you feel like you’re the only person out there on this strange, wild landscape.

Sydney. After a week in the rugged, desolate Outback, we were more than ready to return to city life, and Sydney was the perfect contrast. With its blend of historic and modern architecture, diverse culture, lush parks, and waterfront setting, it reminded me of a mix between San Francisco and New York. Sydney is often rated as one of the most beautiful cities in the world and there’s no refuting that.

Sydney reminded me of why I sometimes miss living in the US. People were so friendly, not just in Sydney, but all across Australia. Taiwanese people are incredibly kind but reserved. Australians have this way of striking up a conversation as if you’ve been friends for years. Walking into a supermarket, I couldn’t help but linger over the ingredients I’ve long missed in Taiwan: all the cheese, beans, berries, and spices! Sydney is a very diverse city so of course we made sure to enjoy all the cuisines that are harder to find back in Taipei. (We thought the food in the Bay Area is slightly better, but still hit the spot!)

The kids absolutely love the beach, so we made our way to two of Sydney’s most famous ones: Bondi and Manly. Since it was winter, the water was cold and the waves were strong so wading in the water wasn’t an option. Still, the boys were perfectly happy spending hours playing in the sand. Living in Taipei, we don’t really have easy access to beaches, so I’m glad the boys had these special seaside moments.

We also took a day trip to the Blue Mountains, a national park about a 1.5 hour drive outside of Sydney. There, we hiked the Grand Canyon trail, which turned out to be stunning, full of lush greenery, canyons, and river crossings. Although the fog kept us from seeing some of the Blue Mountains’ more iconic viewpoints, the hike itself was so beautiful that it felt entirely worth the trip.

We spent 2.5 weeks in Australia and had an amazing time. Sydney, in particular, was one of those places that made us wonder, “Should we move here?” 😏 The trip felt perfectly balanced: we visited tropical Cairns, the rugged Outback, and vibrant Sydney. It was the kind of vacation that made it really hard to pack up and go home!