Tag: summer

Ramblings

Australia

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After Japan, we flew to Australia, a destination that had long been on our travel wish list. Since it’s only about a 7.5-hour direct flight from Tokyo with just a 3-hour time difference, we couldn’t pass up the chance to visit while living in Asia.

Cairns. We took a direct flight from Tokyo to Cairns, landing at 4:30 a.m. We were exhausted. Unfortunately, our hotel room wasn’t ready, so we wandered between cafes, and eventually fell asleep on a couch at a mall looking more than a little disheveled. It was not our best moment. 😂

The next day, we rented a car to drive to Daintree Rainforest. I hadn’t driven in two years since moving to Taiwan, and now I had to do it on the opposite side of the road! 😬 I was white-knuckling the wheel for a good 10 minutes, but got so used to driving in Australia after awhile that I don’t even remember what it’s like driving on the right side anymore.

We hiked through the Daintree, spotted some wild turkeys (though the elusive cassowary remained out of sight!), and swam in a freezing cold water hole. Daintree is actually pretty huge and requires driving between different spots, but it was was a much appreciated peaceful break from our usual city life.

Later that day, we went on a boat ride to spot wild crocodiles at the Daintree River. We saw crocodiles of all sizes, from the massive dominant male to a 6-month-old baby.

But the main attraction in Cairns is, of course, the Great Barrier Reef. We booked a snorkeling tour with Passions of Paradise, which first required a two-hour drive out to the outer reef. The boat ride there was incredibly rocky, and several people got seasick, including C.

The Great Barrier Reef was truly a dream. The coral was huge, and full of diverse colors, intricate shapes and beauty. It’s fascinating to me that this underwater wonder was built by billions of tiny polyps over thousands of years. We didn’t see any unusual sea creatures (sea turtles, sharks, etc.) but we were surrounded by schools of dazzling colorful fish, and even spotted a humpback whale on our way back! Despite it being winter, the water was surprisingly warm and comfortable.

On our last day in Cairns, we were able to meet up with friends that happened to be in Australia at the same time. We took a ferry to Fitzroy Island, where we hiked and snorkeled at the stunning beach. It was the perfect way to end our stay in Cairns: sharing it with familiar faces Down Under!

The Outback. After Cairns, we flew to the Outback. Baba and I had debated whether to go here because for one thing, it’s very remote, and secondly, it’s expensive. The Outback’s remoteness makes everything — flights, hotels, food, gas — much more expensive than almost anywhere in the country. But the Outback is quintessentially Australian, and we felt it would be a really unique experience so we decided to go after all.

We flew into Alice Springs in the late afternoon and began the four-hour drive to Kings Canyon, knowing we’d arrive well after sunset. That alone felt like an adventure because driving after dark is considered one of the riskiest things you can do in the Outback. Kangaroos and other wildlife frequently dart across the road, and a collision could leave your car badly damaged. Out here, there’s no quick call to AAA and a tow truck comes to the rescue. You’d be stranded. In summer, the danger is even greater, with extreme heat turning a breakdown into a life-threatening situation. (Thankfully, we were traveling during Australia’s winter, when the weather was cool.)

The road to Kings Canyon was rough and uneven, and for nearly two hours we were tossed around, swaying side to side like balls rattling inside a machine. To make matters worse, we had rented the tiniest, dinkiest car, so we felt every jolt along the way. 😅 The road was full of obstacles too — huge puddles and herds of camels and cows blocking our path. After an eternity, we made it to Kings Canyon safely and had a good night’s sleep.

Kings Canyon is beautiful, with its bright red rock formations and dramatic, deep canyon. We hiked the popular Rim Trail, and the clear blue skies, crisp air, and breathtaking views made the trek enjoyable. Temperatures were chilly, ranging from the mid-30s to low 50s, and we quickly realized this would be the pattern throughout our Outback stay. No complaints, though…we actually prefer the cold!

After Kings Canyon, we drove to Uluru, the icon of the Outback. The rock is estimated to be 550 million years old and formed from sandstone. We did the Uluru Base Walk, a flat 6-mile walk around the sacred rock. The Aboriginal people of Uluru belong to one of the oldest continuous cultures in the world, with a history that goes back more than 50,000 years, even longer than the ancient civilizations of Egypt!

During our stay in Uluru, we saw the rock countless times. Honestly, at first I shrugged and thought, “Eh, it’s just a rock.” Despite knowing its deep cultural and historical significance, it didn’t strike me as particularly spectacular. But then we saw Uluru at sunset. As the sun sank lower, the dull brown surface changed into a fiery red, glowing as if lit from within. In that moment, it felt otherworldly. (Picture on the left is Uluru during sunset, and right is during sunrise.)

We also hiked the Valley of the Winds at Uluru, a beautiful trail that winds through towering red rock domes and offers sweeping views of the desert landscape. One of my favorite hikes in Australia!

The next day, we drove 5 hours from Uluru back to Alice Springs. (Yes, there was A LOT of driving in the Outback.) In Alice Springs, we visited the Alice Springs Desert Park, filled with animals native to the Outback. Honestly, it was a little underwhelming — many exhibits were empty and we saw very few animals. Tickets weren’t cheap either, about $26 USD per adult and $13 USD per kid.

On our last day in the Outback, we drove to the West MacDonnell Ranges, which is a huge mountain range spanning over 400 miles. There are popular multi-day treks there but we picked a half-day hike at Ormiston Pound. The trail was wonderfully varied — we walked through grasslands, scrambled over huge boulders, and even waded across a small pond.

Would I go back to the Outback? Probably not. It’s difficult to reach, the food was mediocre at best, and as I mentioned, it’s expensive. With so few restaurants, we found ourselves eating way too many protein bars on our hikes. The boys and I agreed we never want to see another one again. 😆Still, the Outback has its own quiet charm. Its vast, empty stretches make you feel like you’re the only person out there on this strange, wild landscape.

Sydney. After a week in the rugged, desolate Outback, we were more than ready to return to city life, and Sydney was the perfect contrast. With its blend of historic and modern architecture, diverse culture, lush parks, and waterfront setting, it reminded me of a mix between San Francisco and New York. Sydney is often rated as one of the most beautiful cities in the world and there’s no refuting that.

Sydney reminded me of why I sometimes miss living in the US. People were so friendly, not just in Sydney, but all across Australia. Taiwanese people are incredibly kind but reserved. Australians have this way of striking up a conversation as if you’ve been friends for years. Walking into a supermarket, I couldn’t help but linger over the ingredients I’ve long missed in Taiwan: all the cheese, beans, berries, and spices! Sydney is a very diverse city so of course we made sure to enjoy all the cuisines that are harder to find back in Taipei. (We thought the food in the Bay Area is slightly better, but still hit the spot!)

The kids absolutely love the beach, so we made our way to two of Sydney’s most famous ones: Bondi and Manly. Since it was winter, the water was cold and the waves were strong so wading in the water wasn’t an option. Still, the boys were perfectly happy spending hours playing in the sand. Living in Taipei, we don’t really have easy access to beaches, so I’m glad the boys had these special seaside moments.

We also took a day trip to the Blue Mountains, a national park about a 1.5 hour drive outside of Sydney. There, we hiked the Grand Canyon trail, which turned out to be stunning, full of lush greenery, canyons, and river crossings. Although the fog kept us from seeing some of the Blue Mountains’ more iconic viewpoints, the hike itself was so beautiful that it felt entirely worth the trip.

We spent 2.5 weeks in Australia and had an amazing time. Sydney, in particular, was one of those places that made us wonder, “Should we move here?” 😏 The trip felt perfectly balanced: we visited tropical Cairns, the rugged Outback, and vibrant Sydney. It was the kind of vacation that made it really hard to pack up and go home!

Ramblings

Japan

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Over the summer, we went to Tokyo, Japan for 10 days (followed by Australia but more on that later). This would be my third time in Japan, so I wasn’t too keen on visiting again except for a few reasons:

  1. We brought C to Japan when he was only a year old, and O has never been
  2. DisneySea is often called the best Disney park in the world, so we thought it was the perfect place to take the boys for their first Disney experience
  3. We wanted to climb Mt. Fuji
  4. Japan is only a three hour flight from Taiwan – plus, no jet lag!

Japan has always been a favorite destination for many, particularly in the last few years to the point that it’s suffering from overtourism. To be honest, I never understood it. Japan is nice enough – safe, clean and affordable – but I didn’t think it was any more special than other countries. I never got the hype…until this trip.

First, the food. We didn’t seek out the most popular spots, yet even the little restaurants down the street were amazing. I don’t think we ever had a bad meal there, and everything was so affordable! (As you can tell from the pictures below, we ate a LOT of sushi.)

Next up: DisneySea. We’re not huge Disney fans, but could still appreciate their stunning visuals, immersive experiences, and attention to detail. DisneySea felt especially unique, with rides like Soaring Fantastic Flight and Journey to the Center of the Earth that we had never experienced before.

Tickets to DisneySea were about $70 USD for adults, and $60 USD for kids, which is a STEAL compared to the prices for Disneyland in Anaheim. We did splurge on fast passes for Soaring Fantastic Flight and Anna and Elsa’s Frozen Journey, at around $15 USD per person per ride. What would’ve been a 1.5 hour – 2 hour wait ended up being a 10-15 minute wait with the fast passes, so the splurge was worth it!

By the end of a full day at DisneySea, our feet were so sore and our wallets a little lighter, but we had an absolute blast. Disney sure knows how to make your experience there enjoyable!

On a less successful theme park note…

We had also planned to go to Legoland Japan for O’s birthday. We were careful to book tickets for Legoland Resort (the full theme park), not the Legoland Discovery Center (the smaller indoor version). The day before while checking the route, we realized it would take us THREE hours by train to get there. (Why we didn’t notice this earlier, I have no idea.) But since it was O’s birthday and we already had the tickets, we decided to make the trek anyway.

At the crack of dawn, we packed our bags and headed to the train station…only for Baba to discover that round-trip train tickets would cost us $700 USD!! 😱😱 We checked, re-checked, and triple-checked, but it was true. Since Legoland is in Nagoya, the only way to get there was the Shinkansen, and those tickets are pricey. (Planning ahead? Clearly not our strong suit.)

We had to cut our losses short. We gave up our Legoland tickets (about $150 USD) and faced the hardest part– telling the boys. Poor O burst into tears, heartbroken that his birthday trip to Legoland was canceled. My mama heart was crushed.

To soften the blow, we went to the Legoland Discovery Center instead (ironically, the very place we had been so careful not to book initially – ha!). Thankfully, it’s right in central Tokyo, and while it’s nowhere near as comprehensive as the full resort, it still had enough rides, games, and Lego builds to keep the boys entertained for most of the day.

We wrapped up by letting the birthday boy choose dinner — AYCE shabu shabu, which helped turn a disappointing start to a day that was still memorable and fun. Happy birthday O, we love you! ❤️

On our last day in Tokyo, we visited TeamLabs Planets, an immersive exhibit that combines art with technology. The boys and I had already been impressed by a TeamLabs exhibit in Taipei, but since Japan is where TeamLabs originated, we wanted to check it out.

The experience was nothing short of psychedelic and fully immersive, from bouncing among giant ceiling-to-floor spheres, to walking barefoot through water as digital fish swam around us! The “wow” factor never stopped. It was wildly creative, awe-inspiring from start to finish, and highly recommended for kids AND adults!

As you can tell, we didn’t exactly dive into Japan’s cultural side on this trip. 😏 Instead, it was mostly theme parks and art exhibits, but we still had a fantastic time.

As for our Mt. Fuji climb…this post is getting a bit long and I think that deserves a post all its own. So, stay tuned!

Ramblings

Indonesia Part 2: Java and Bali

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Click here to read the first part of our Indonesia trip.

Bali is one of the most popular destinations in Asia. It’s so popular that it has sort of become synonymous with Indonesia. But it’s easy to see why. Bali has a rich culture and natural beauty, but also tourist-friendly features like 5-star resorts, electric nightlife and plenty of restaurants.

We chose to stay in Ubud, the cultural center of Bali that’s also very family-friendly. I decided to “splurge” on our accommodations (but it was still relatively affordable!). Our villa had a swimming pool, 3 large rooms, and included 2 helpers who came each morning to prepare breakfast for us. What a treat!

On our first full day in Bali, we went snorkeling at 3 locations. The first location had super choppy and deep waters, but we were there to see the giant manta ray – and we did! Unfortunately we weren’t able to get any pictures. The next two locations had calmer waters, and the boys had a much more pleasant experience. This was their first time snorkeling and I’m amazed by how brave they were! This is the tour we booked.

After a day of adventure, we booked a more low-key tour the next day and visited some of Bali’s most famous temples: Ulun Danu Beratan (left) and Tanah Lot (right). No tourists were allowed inside.

We also visited the Jatiluwih Rice Terrace and Handara Gate. Honestly, not much to do in these places except to look around and take pictures.

Bali is known for its spas, so of course we had book a couple’s spa/massage at Ubud Traditional Spa for Baba and me. The two-hour massage for 2 people cost only $60! It would be triple the price in SF.

While Baba and I were getting massages, my SIL took the boys to the Sacred Monkey Forest, where hundreds of monkeys roam free. Quite frankly, this would freak me out. 😅

Food in Bali was a lot more expensive compared to Java and in our opinion, generally not as good. We felt like the flavors were altered to cater to foreign palettes. The center of Ubud had many trendy restaurants serving acai bowls, steaks, vegan cuisines, and sushi. Ironically though, the best meal we had in Indonesia was also in Bali – crispy, spicy pork belly and sausage with greens and rice (center picture).

Sights around Ubud, Bali.

We wanted to explore other parts of the island but traveling around Bali was so, so cumbersome. Public transportation is non-existent and the roads are narrow, with only one lane going each way. Traffic is terrible at any hour of the day. One time, we were stuck in a taxi for an hour when the ride should’ve been only 20 minutes! 😠

I know Bali is a desired destination for many, but unfortunately it wasn’t our favorite. Many “attractions” felt like they were built just to bait tourists, like the Bali swing, or photo op setups at temples. Some bars and restaurants in Ubud look like they plucked straight from Las Vegas or London. Tourism is a huge part of Bali’s economy so it’s understandable they have to cater to visitors but it can feel inauthentic, especially since we had just come from Java.

After a week in Bali and 2 months in Taiwan, we parted ways with my SIL at the airport. The boys were devastated. They had such a fun and memorable summer with their aunt, and we are thankful she spent her summer with us. Goodbyes are the hardest part of living abroad, but I don’t think they’ll ever get easier.

Ramblings

Indonesia Part 1: Java and Bali

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Bali had always been on my list of places to travel to. I was captivated by the blend of culture, beauty and laid back vibe of the island. But the 20+ hour flight from San Francisco deterred us from visiting for the longest time.

So when we moved to Taiwan, I knew we had to take advantage of the 5 hour flight to Bali. As I did more research though, I realized just how many islands there are in Indonesia that get overshadowed by Bali! (Seriously, there are 6,000 inhabited islands in the country.) I felt like we wouldn’t do Indonesia justice by visiting just Bali, so we decided to visit Java as well. Even thought there were other islands I wanted to go to – namely, Komodo, Borneo and Lombok – it was logistically hard to plan. We spent 1 week in Java and 1 week in Bali.

Java. Java is considered the economic and cultural center of Indonesia. The capital Jakarta is also on the island but we decided to skip it after reading many reviews saying there isn’t much to see/do. Instead, we went to Yogykarta and Surabaya.

Yogykarta (or commonly called “Jogja”) is known for its cultural heritage and traditional arts. It’s actually the most popular destination in Java but it never felt overly touristy or inauthentic. I really liked the laid-back vibe in Jogja.

We visited the famous Prambanan and Borobudur temples in Jogja. Prambanan (pictured below) is a large Hindu temple complex that reminded us so much of Angkor Wat. Visitors can also climb up into some of the temples, where a statue of a deity often stood. We went to Prambanan during sunset and seeing the temples in the warm, glowing hues was a wonderful way to end the day.

Borobudur is the largest Buddhist temple in the world. Borobudur is actually quite close to Prambanan (about 1.5 hour drive away) so many people visit the two temples in one day. But because we had extra time, we visited each temple on different days so as not to wear ourselves out.

Borobudur temple has several upper levels, which visitors need to buy a special ticket to in order to visit. I had such a hard time securing the tickets (probably due to bots 😒) so ended up working with an agent. Because of its massive scale, the temple is very impressive from afar. We climbed the stairways and walked through the corridors to see the relief panels but the temple has no interior you can walk into. Overall, we enjoyed the architecture and aesthetic of Prambanan more.

We didn’t realize it at the time, but Jogja had the best food out of all the places we visited in Indonesia. The dishes were reminiscent of Southeast Asia flavors: a mix of salty, sour, sweet and SPICY! I have a decent spice tolerance but some of the food set my mouth on fire (in a good way). The downside was finding food for the boys because even the least spicy foods were too much for them. 😂 Food was extremely affordable in Jogja – the total bill was generally no more than $20 for the 5 of us.

After Jogja, we took a 4 hour train ride to Surabaya in east Java. We were pleasantly surprised by how comfortable the trains were! We booked seats in the Executive Class through tiket.com, and each ticket only came out to be about $20 per person.

Surabaya is the gateway city to Mount Bromo, one of Indonesia’s most famous active volcanoes. We booked a Mount Bromo sunrise tour, which picked us up from our Airbnb at midnight (!!) 😱 to then drive 2 hours to a spot where we switched to a 4×4. The 4×4 drove us up a rugged, winding path for another 1.5 hours (which the boys loved of course) to King Kong Hill to catch the sunrise.

Prior to the tour, our guide had warned us about the windy and frigid weather at King Kong Hill. We packed as much warm clothing as we could, but our efforts were futile. The wind chill atop King Kong Hill was brutal. What’s worse is that we had to stand in the cold for 1.5 HOURS in order to see the sunrise from the best viewing spot. Understandably, the boys were very grumpy. At long last, we finally saw the sunrise and it was absolutely glorious…though we would’ve enjoyed it a lot more if it weren’t so damn cold.

After snapping some pictures, we raced down the hill to try and beat the other tourists leaving the area. The road was PACKED with 4x4s, causing a major bottleneck. We had to wait another 45 minutes for the cars to start moving.

The next leg of the tour was climbing up to the crater of Mount Bromo. It’s not a hard or long climb, but can be steep in some areas. It was awe-inspiring to see an active volcano up close!

The last part of the tour was seeing the Madakaripura Waterfall. What we did NOT expect was having to reach the waterfall on the back of a motorbike. 😂 Granted the ride was short (about 10-15 minutes), but you can bet I was hanging onto the driver for dear life! Of course the boys loved it and thought it was the best thing ever.

After the motorbikes dropped us off at the trailhead, we had to hike about 1/2 a mile – including crossing a few rivers and scrambling on rocks – to reach the Madakaripura Waterfall.

And it was STUNNING. Seriously, pictures cannot do this place justice. The soft streams of water flowing down from the cliffside was like a dream. The sound of the waterfall was thunderous yet I felt so at peace there.

The entire tour lasted 16 hours. We were utterly exhausted but agreed this tour was the highlight of our Indonesia trip. The next day, we all slept in and didn’t have the energy to do much except hang out at the pool/gym. There was a mall and food court below our Airbnb, so we never even left the building. The boys later visited a cool balloon exhibit in the mall.

Looking back, we’re a little disappointed we didn’t get to explore much of Surabaya but getting some down time to recharge was also necessary. (I was experiencing cold symptoms at this point too!) From Surabaya, we took a 45 minute flight to Bali. However seeing how long this post is getting, I think I’ll save Bali for another post!

Ramblings

Summer 2024 Activities in Taiwan: Zongzi, Fencing, and Monkey King Opera

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This summer, Baba’s sister (my SIL) came to Taiwan and stayed with us for 2.5 months. Prior to her arrival, the boys excitedly came up with a list of places to take her around Taipei and beyond. This is one of the few times we get to play host. Since most of our friends and family are from the Bay Area, we never had to take anyone around until we moved here.

Luckily, my SIL was down for everything. Even though we didn’t sign the boys up for any full-time camps, they still had a busy and productive summer! This is just a snippet of the things we did, in addition to Alishan and Indonesia (which I’ll blog about next!).

Zongzi Cooking Class. We had such a fun time learning how to wrap zongzi 粽子 at CookingFun Taiwan. At the time, the Dragon Boat Festival holiday had already passed so it was just the four of us in the whole class!

Making zongzi is extremely labor intensive since each ingredient needs to be prepared separately and in advance. The process can take days. Our teacher had already prepared some ingredients for us beforehand, so we were able to make 26 zongzi’s during the 2.5 hour class and take them all home with us!

Fencing. Fencing always looked like sword fighting to me so I thought the boys would enjoy it. I found a one-day trial class and signed the boys up. The class was really fun, but it’s quite a journey from our place and I’m not sure if we want to manage another extracurricular during the weekend. But how adorable are the fencing uniforms? 😍

Monkey King Chinese Opera. The Monkey King opera is put on by Taipei Eye Performing Arts. The show was really entertaining but I’m also glad it was only an hour. 😅 While there were English subtitles displayed on the side of the stage, Chinese opera can be rather hard to follow! The pre and post show activities were so much fun. We got to dress up in traditional Chinese costumes, participated in a print-making activity, and even met the actors.

Shrimping. Believe it or not, one of Taiwan’s pastimes is indoor shrimping. You rent fishing rods for about $13 an hour, and can catch as many shrimp during that time. The first time we went, we only caught 5. This time, we caught 9! You can then grill and eat the shrimp onsite. Despite how peculiar this all is, we always get a thrill whenever we catch a shrimp. The shrimp pool we went to this time was called Fun蝦休閒釣蝦場. It was clean, had AC and the staff was kind – highly recommend!

Tainan. Baba and I already took the boys to Tainan last October, but my SIL wanted to visit the city with the boys. They went for 2 nights, which gave Baba and me some much appreciated time off! 😊

Staying Active. It’s absurdly hot and humid in Taipei during the summer, so we had to find ways to stay active indoors. We played badminton, ping pong, swam, and went to the gym at the nearby sports center. On occasion, we would join a group of visually impaired people at Sun Yat Sen for a run at night. (Ok full disclosure: I did it once and couldn’t stand the humidity but Baba, my SIL and the boys went a few times!)

Glass Blowing. It never occurred to me to try glass blowing, but I wanted to find indoor activities to avoid the heat and this popped up on a blog. Guests get to take part in the entire process, from gathering molten glass from the furnace to forming the glass with the blowpipe. It was a fun, educational experience – but didn’t come cheap! Depending on the shape you want to make, the cost can be $30-$100 per person. Initially, we weren’t sure if we wanted to do it, until we realized the same experience in SF would cost around $200! Gotta take advantage of the benefits of living in Taiwan while we can. Our glass blowing experience was done at Kun Crystal.

There were more activities we did but I don’t want this blog to get too long. We had a pretty fun and productive summer, right? Except I’m sure if you asked the boys what we did all summer, they’d say, “Nothing. We just sat at home and played with our tablets.” 😒 Why do I even bother? 😂

Ramblings

Exploring Alishan in Taiwan | A Cool Summer Getaway

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Summer is coming to an end, and there is so much to catch up on! I’ll start with our trip to Alishan 阿里山 back in July.

Alishan is one place I had always wanted to visit in Taiwan. Known for its lush greenery, tea trails, and forest railway, Alishan is a wonderful escape from the big city (and heat!) in Taipei. Since my SIL was visiting for the summer, we all took a 3 night/4 day trip to the area.

We first took the high-speed rail from Taipei to Chiayi Station. From there, you can take the historic newly-reopened Alishan Forest Railway directly to Alishan, but tickets are hard to come by. So, the alternative is to take one of the many buses to Alishan, which can take about 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours, depending on whether you want to stop at any of the smaller towns near Alishan. We did not have to book bus tickets in advance and simply paid the fare with our Easy Card on the bus.

Since we had time, we decided to stop by a small town called Fenqihu 奮起湖 for 1 night before making our way to Alishan. We stayed at the Fenqihu Hotel located in the center of town. We immediately noticed the temperature difference between Taipei and the Alishan area after stepping off the bus. While Taipei has been in the 90s everyday plus humidity, Fenqihu was a cool, breezy 75°F. We were so thankful to be spared from the heat!

Fenqihu is popular for its bamboo forest and (weirdly) their bento boxes. The bento boxes were quite tasty, generous in size, and cheap! Each bento was about $4 and came with bottomless seaweed soup.

We had low expectations for good food in this little town, but we surprisingly found some incredible cronuts and aiyu jelly 愛玉, which is a refreshing jelly dessert made from fig seeds. The jelly is topped with ice and lime juice, making it a perfect summer treat.

Fenqihu is also popular location to see fireflies at night. Our hotel offers nightly tours to see fireflies but because of the rain, we weren’t able to see too many.

After Fenqihu, we took a 30-minute bus ride to Alishan, where we stayed for 2 nights. Our hotel was Chinshan Villa. I loved Alishan! I’ve always been a city girl, but being surrounded by mountains and lush green forests is just so calming. The air in Alishan is ten times cleaner and fresher than Taipei’s too. The park itself isn’t huge so you can do all the hikes within 2 days with time to spare. None of the hikes were particularly strenuous, so it’s great for all fitness levels.

Even though we weren’t able to get tickets for the historic Alishan Forest Railway, you can still ride the train within the park. In fact, I think the trains that run within the park are even better because they use the old wooden carriages (while the trains from Chiayi are more like commuter trains). The trains look gorgeous against the landscape of Alishan!

A popular thing to do in Alishan is seeing the sunrise. We woke up at 3am, rode the train up to the mountain peak and waited for the sunrise. It was beautiful, but not sure if it’s worth sacrificing my beauty sleep. 😅 The early morning was also extremely cold, so the boys had to wear Baba’s clothes and I had to rent a jacket from our hotel. Baba just braved the cold. 😂 Apparently tourists often underestimate the temperature drop in Alishan!

Alishan is probably the most well-respected producer of teas in Taiwan due to its altitude and weather. As a lover of teas – but I’m in no way a connoisseur! – I went with my SIL to do some tea tasting. The most interesting fact (or perhaps belief?) we learned is that tea does not have any long term health benefits! Instead, the tea master we met said it’s merely the lifestyle of tea drinkers that could contribute to longevity, which includes socializing with friends, drinking lots of fluids, etc. Still, my SIL walked away with a few bags of oolong teas. 😊

Before heading back to Taipei, we made a quick stop at another town called Shizhuo 石桌, known for its tea plantations. Shizhuo, along with Fenqihu and Xiding, are the three most common towns to stay at on the way to Alishan. We got to Shizhuo by the bus enroute to Chiayi.

Seeing the neat rows of tea plantations was lovely but we didn’t realize how hot it was in Shizhuo. The hikes were all uphill and after about an hour, we were sweating buckets and ready to go home.

We were prepared to take the bus back to Chiayi Station to catch the high-speed rail, but a taxi driver offered us an unbelievable deal ($16 for a 1 hour drive back!) so our tired bodies eagerly hopped on the cab.

I can see why Alishan is such a popular destination for locals and tourists alike. The scenery is beautiful everywhere you look. Apparently it’s even more beautiful during cherry blossom season, where trails and railways are flanked with blooming pink flowers. I can only dream of seeing that one day!

Ramblings

Porto

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It was hard to leave Spain, but we were also looking forward to visiting Portugal. Portugal has been in the news for being one of the most popular countries Americans flock to, so we were curious about it.

We took a 1-hour flight from Madrid to Porto and stayed here for 4 days. Porto is one of those quintessentially charming European cities, with cobblestone streets, narrow alleyways, and beautiful river views. We also got a reprieve from the intense Madrid heat. Porto’s weather was in the mid low to mid 80s while we were there. This is a major reason why Porto is one of C and O’s favorite cities. 😅

Porto is famous for its bridges. It currently has six bridges across the River Douro, with the most famous one being Ponte Dom Luís I (pictured above). The top level of the bridge is for the metro and the bottom is for cars, but pedestrians can walk on either level.

The food in Porto was delicious, with plentiful, fresh seafood. One of Portugal’s classic dishes is bacalhau (pictured on the far right), which is salted cod. It was tasty when mixed with other ingredients but can be quite intense on its own. The cost for food wasn’t as cheap as Spain; a typical meal costs $15 to $18 per person.

Of course, we also had to try the Portuguese egg tarts (or pasta del nata) while in Portugal! They are filled with an eggy custard with a texture that is similar to crème brulée. The filling is sweeter than the Chinese egg tart, and the crust is an amazingly crispy and layered puff pastry. We munched on these little treats whenever we could.

The Francesinha sandwich is also native to Portugal, specifically from Porto. It is made with layers of bread and meats like steak, ham, bacon. Then, it’s topped with sliced cheese and doused with a tomato and beer sauce. Oh, and it comes with fries too – in case you needed more calories 😏. Honestly, this wasn’t one of our favorite things to eat in Portugal but we had to give it a try.

While in Madrid, we had the idea to send postcards to friends and family back home. We tried to mail postcards from each city we visited, including Porto. It was great for C and O to see what the stamps looked like, and how the post offices operated in each country. (Little did we know that it would take a month for people to receive the postcards, good lord! 😂)

Porto can be a little touristy, but it’s hard to resist its charm and beauty. Thanks for a great time, Porto! 💙

Ramblings

Meet Me in Madrid

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Madrid was our second choice after Taipei for moving abroad. After spending 10 days there – and despite the terrible heat – we agreed we would be happy to live in this enthralling city.

Madrid seamlessly blends the action of a big metropolis with the charm of a historic place. It is vast but also concentrated. Each neighborhood has plenty of awesome restaurants, shops, and things to see/do. The population is diverse, which means more options for international cuisines. 😋

On our first full day in Madrid, we went to Retiro Park, which is a massive green oasis in the middle of the city. It’s beautiful – perfectly manicured lawns, rose gardens, lakes, playgrounds and even a public library nestled inside! It was a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of Madrid.

We stopped for lunch at Casa Toni, a restaurant famous for making offal tapas. We munched on spicy pig ears, tripe, sweetbreads, and lamb intestines. Our favorites were the pig ears and sweetbreads. I’m glad C and O have an adventurous appetite.

Afterward, we walked down the block to eat gambas al ajillo, or shrimp with olive oil, garlic and parsley. It was a tapa I absolutely loved when I visited Spain 14 years ago – and it’s still as good as I remembered! It’s one of the pricier tapas at around €12 per plate.

Of course we also had to stop by the Museum of Jamón.

At this point, the heat was getting intense and the kids were complaining. This is where bribes can come in handy! 😆 We brought the boys to the historic San Ginés Chocolate Shop and had churros with chocolate, a favorite treat in Madrid. The churros were airy and light, and the chocolate was silky smooth and not too sweet. The boys were satisfied with this bribe.

We lived in the Moratalaz district of Madrid. It’s a quiet residential neighborhood with mostly locals but it was so far from the city center that we had to commute 30-40 minutes by bus each day. Thankfully, we had 10 days so there was enough time for traveling back and forth, but it’s not a neighborhood we’d recommend for short stays. (There was however, a fabulous outdoor pool near our Airbnb that we loved hanging out at!) If we were to move to Madrid, our neighborhood picks would be either Retiro (we just love Retiro Park!) or Chamberí, also a quiet residential area but very central.

Ramblings

Menú Del Día

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One of the many things we love about Spain is their menú del día (or daily menu). It’s typically served at lunch and consists of a starter, an entree, dessert or coffee, and a drink. Each menú del día costs anywhere from €11 to €18, which is a steal, considering how large the portions are and the price includes all taxes and tips.

We would order three menú del días for the four of us and we always walk away stuffed. You can choose from 3-4 items for each course, and the items are usually pretty fancy!

Starters (from left to right):

Baby squid, lobster/seafood rice, snails and grilled cuttlefish. Some starters could be a meal by themselves!

Entrees (from left to right):

Seafood paella (that’s three portions in the photo), oxtail stew, and grilled squid. The Spaniards make squid so, so well. It’s perfect every time.

Desserts were usually just ok, hence why I didn’t take many pictures. 😅 But we seek out menú del día wherever we go. Can’t miss out on a good deal and good food!

I remember being worried that we wouldn’t be able to adjust to the late meal times in Spain. (Lunch starts at 1pm – 2pm and dinner is at 8pm. Back in SF, we would eat lunch at 11:30am and dinner at 6pm.) But surprisingly, we adjusted within a week. Sometimes we didn’t get hungry for lunch until 2pm! Dinner can be a challenge because we wanted C and O to sleep early. If we went out to eat, we wouldn’t get back home until 9:30pm – 10pm. So, there were times we just bought groceries and cooked dinner at our Airbnb. It can be a nice break from eating out all the time and also getting more vegetables in our bodies!

P.S. We’re actually in Lisbon now, but I’m still catching up on Spain posts!

Ramblings

Valencia

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After a wonderful stay in Barcelona, we boarded a 3 hour train to the birthplace of paella. Baba asked me why we decided to visit Valencia and to be honest, I can’t remember why. I think I had also considered Valencia as a potential place to move to, and I can’t say no to good paella!

At the Valencia train station with our massive luggage.

We stayed in Valencia for 6 days. Valencia is the third-largest city in Spain but is very walkable and has a small town feel. For the first couple of days, we visited some of Valencia’s top attractions.

Mercat Central de València. This is a beautifully ornate public market that sells everything from colorful fruits and seafood to pastries and souvenirs. Unlike La Boqueria in Barcelona, this market was less crowded and touristy. You can see locals here shopping for groceries. There is also a popular restaurant in the market called Central Bar, but we arrived too late and the wait was horrendous.

The City of Arts and Sciences. This is a complex of cool, futuristic buildings that include a movie theater, planetarium and science museum. We read that the museums are better suited for older kids, so we didn’t go inside. But it was still fun to see the unique architecture of the buildings.

Old Town. Also the downtown of Valencia, this charming area has a cathedral (believed to have the original Holy Chalice or Holy Grail), a big plaza, historic monuments, and plenty of restaurants and shopping. It was also in Old Town that we came across a long-running café, Horchatería Santa Catalina, and had horchata. Horchata is a refreshing milk drink made from tiger nuts. It tastes similar to soy milk and is very popular in Valencia.

We made sure to eat as much paella as we could in Valencia. We even took a 1 hour bus to the fishing village of El Palmar, known for its paella. The most common type of paella today is seafood paella, but traditional Valencian paella is made with rabbit, chicken or duck, and broad beans. Unfortunately, the rabbit and chicken is usually a bit dry so we still prefer the seafood paella.

Paella restaurants charge per person and require a minimum of two orders. We usually order for three people, and it’s SO MUCH FOOD. All good though! 😋

The rest of our time in Valencia was spent swimming or going to the beach (which was beautiful but crowded) and discovering amazing playgrounds like Parc Gulliver. The whimsical playground is made up of slides in the shape of the character Gulliver.

Valencia was nice, but a tad slow for us city folk. Most of the charm and action was in Old Town, but it didn’t quite reach the rest of the city. What can I say? We have the attention spans of a flea. 😅

On to Madrid next!